Scroop Patterns
Aidah Gown 1775-1790
This a digital PDF download. See 'About Your PDF' below for more details.
US$18
Sizes 30-52 in 3 size packs:
Difficulty: Advanced
The Aidah Gown pattern is a modish variant of the 'Italian Gown' style fashionable from the mid 1770s to the early 1790s. This type of gown has a skirt and bodice cut as separate pieces, differentiating it from the earlier Robe à l'Anglaise which featured the skirt and bodice center-back cut as one piece.
Both views of the Aidah feature front pattern pieces that wrap around to the back with no side seams, pointed backs waists, paneled backs with squared-off back necklines and sleeves set far into the back, a full pleated skirt open at the front, two-piece sleeves, removable interior boning, and an optional waist tape. Choose between a pinned front closure or a hooked front closure.
View A has a smoothly pointed front curve that ends in a truncated V, elbow length or ¾ sleeves, a two panel back, and a floor length skirt.
View B features a tabbed bodice front with an optional cutaway front, full length or ¾ length sleeves, a four panel back, and a slight train.
Mix and match front closures, fronts, backs, skirts, and sleeves for a variety of looks.
The pattern features a clever skirt pattern based on 18th century skirt construction, as well as the detailed historical instructions and helpful fitting guide Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods patterns are known for.
The Aidah is designed to be interchangeable with elements of the Angelica Gown, to make both patterns more versatile. The sleeves of the Aidah can be swapped with the Angelica Gown sleeves. The fronts of the Aidah can also be swapped out with the Angelica front/side-front at the curved side-back seams.
The Aidah Gown is designed to be worn over a full set of 18th century undergarments, including stays, such as the Augusta or Cassandra Stays and a false rump, such as the free Frances Rump.
This pattern does not include instructions on making the petticoat (skirt) that is visible at the front of the gown. There are numerous free tutorials for this on the internet.
The instructions use historically-accurate methods and are entirely hand-sewn. It is possible to do some steps by machine, but no machine-sewing instructions are included.
Recommended Fabrics:
Outer: light or midweight fabrics including: block-printed cotton; plain, striped, and brocaded silks; plain and striped linens; plain and checked wools. Consult extant garments for examples of patterns, prints and weaves that were used in period.
Lining: light to midweight linen (most common) or block printed cotton (less common) or light-midweight silk (least common)
The Models:
Lydia is wearing View B without a cutaway front in Size 40 in black linen with a matching petticoat. Her Aidah has full length sleeves, and the floor length skirt option. She wears her Aidah over Augusta Stays and a full split rump, to show what the gown looks like in a very high-fashion silhouette. Lydia's outfit is styled as a theatrical/cosplay look, as there is very little evidence for long sleeves on Italian gowns, or for black linen gowns.
About your PDF:
This pattern is a digital download. Once you complete your purchase you’ll be sent an email with a link to download a zip file containing your printable files. You’ll need to open it on a computer: the zip file will not open on phones and tablets.
The Aidah Gown zip contains the following files:
- Instructions: 44 pages
- Print-At-Home Pattern: 56 pages (Size Pack A); 60 pages (Size Pack B); 64 pages (Size Pack C)
- Copyshop Pattern: 3 A0 page
- Printing Instructions: 3 pages
- Fitting & Alterations Guide: 10 pages
Sizing Chart:
Paper Patterns:
A paper version of the Aidah Gown is available through Virgil's Fine Goods in the USA.
Tester Makes
Tutorials & Pattern Hacks
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How to make your own silk ribbon - perfect for a bust bow for the Aidah
About the Pattern and Additional Historical Information:
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The Aidah vs the Angelica: what's the difference
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Introducing the 1775-1790 Aidah Gown
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The inspiration behind the Aidah Gown
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Horizontal or vertical? Sleeve stripes on 1770s-90s gowns and jackets
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